We started out our Skagway tour at the National Klondike Gold Rush Park. One of the rangers read one of writer, Robert Service's stories before showing us their Gold Rush movie.The Visitor's Center is in one of the remodeled old buildings here...
When you have to get your train through high snows, here is what you use
After gold was discovered here in 1896, 100,000 rushed to come here from all over the world. Only app 30,000 made it all the way to Dawson’s City which is 600+ miles north. The majority arrived too late to stake a claim, but the business minded among them saw economic opportunity in providing for those arriving. In two years the rush was over. The town was originally called Mooresville for its founder William Moore, but later became Skagway.
The remodeled visitor's center
At Lake Bennett two German brothers made a fortune building two different hotels/restaurants; the first at the lake and the second one in Whitehorse which was at the end of the railroad. (President Trump’s ancestors.)The trail is so steep & stark that 3300 packed horses died too. Jack London reported many of the gold rush stories along with Robert Service.
This park is divided into four parts: the Skagway Historic District with its restored buildings, (Chilkoot Trail, White Pass, and another in Seattle). Some park rangers stay here all year to work at maintaining and restoring the historic buildings which are then rented for commercial or community uses) Skagway has retained its historical atmosphere thanks to the National Park Service with help from the cruise lines. Mike read that much of the shops that are advertised on the ship and promoted through coupons are owned by the cruise lines & probably much of the tours as well. The good news is that just as one of Skagway founders, Mr William Moore predicted, the real gold here is the tourism industry.
Over 100,000 arrive by 1900. Only about 400-500 live here all year round. It’s the only town that is a park and actual town. In 1900, there were 180 saloons and 80 brothels, but since the later were outlawed, the first floor was an actual business. One business was a bakery/brothel, that advertised “Hot Buns 24 Hours a Day.”
- His stories become so popular, that he becomes a millionaire. He goes to the Balkans to report on the War there. While there he met and married and has one surviving daughter. In his forties, he drives WWI ambulance and continues to write. During WWII he and his family return to Vancouver because of Hitler and the Nazi's propaganda. When the war ended, he and his family returned to France to live. He and his family were friends of Lindbergh and other famous people, but always considered himself a writer of the people. Best Tales of Yukon, has some of his stories. Some of his prose is written in a very descriptive, lyrical poetic rhythm. He didn’t consider himself a poet, even though his best work has that bend to it.
We actually have to go through Canadian customs to get to the Summit. Pretty lax since they knew we were off cruise ships, Sam, our driver/guide vouched that he had seen all our passports and that was it- “Boom and Bust” the continually climate cycle, occurs mainly in the summer before the winter “Freeze Up”
Sam was our cute tour guide/driver that took us to the Summit and then, to the “98” historical musical presentation show. (Close to the Summit, we actual cross over the same fault that becomes the San Andreas fault in CA.)
At the taller mountain heights the trees become “flagpoled” or one sided in their growth because of the high winds up here. Everything here, even now is expensive since it has to be shipped in. (Eight dollars for a gallon of milk, so many drive to Whitehorse for supplies)
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| It's pretty obvious how the tree-line changes
A couple glasses of a special tea or ale made from Spruce tip is used to keep one healthy and prevent scurvy back in the day. For the miners they depended on beer ...and so does Mike. Until he tried the Spruce Tip Gin, with tonic and lime...I don't like gin, but this drink was delicious and refreshing!!!
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| Can't imagine trying to get up these trails with a ton of supplies
The Alaskan expression for good people up here is you’re a “Sourdough”. (The miners kept their sourdough starter under their armpits to keep it alive, so they had some flavor in their lives. Ugh!!! So, if you able to tough it out up here, then you are a Sourdough.
The “two-two train” was an expression that came about when they were building the train track through here. It took them two years and two days. The train ride up to the Summit is romantic, but not so great, since there is no AC; it’s very rickety and often breaks down. Glad we chose the bus trip!!!
Mike remembered that his Uncle Henry served during WWII with the 35th Army Engineers building the Alaskan Highway. I had forgotten that Japan had invaded the Aleutian Islands, off Alaska’s Coast early in the war. Sam, our driver's summer quarters are shared with other young-ins in one of the old Army barracks. Three thousand troops landed here in 1941 to build the AlCan highways in 9 months. The Aleutian Islands were taken back not long after it was complete. In
1949 the state celebrated Territorial Days when Alaska became the 49th state admitted into the US. (This state was the first state to allow woman right to vote even before they were a state.)
(It turns out Skagway was Sarah Palin’s first home.)
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| One of our entertainers calling to her customers |
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| Inside the theater |
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| We didn't do the tour, but we did get Mike a T shirt...funny!!! |
There was no gold in this town except for the gold dust and small nuggets that were dropped by the miners. The real gold was found 600+ miles North closer to Dawson City. It was where the northern White Pass Trail started.
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| Looking down the street to our cruise ship |
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| The original Elks type lodge |
After so many came unprepared, the Canadian Mounties required miners to bring a year’s worth of goods which amounted to 2000 lbs. and usually, it took 40 trips per single person. The weather was so bad; it killed many.
It turns out the Musical, we saw was based on these early characters that are now lying inside and just outside this cemetery.
The unknown man story is one of those "Truth is Stranger than Fiction!"
As we returned to the ship; there were sled dog puppies in the piazza for people to pet. They were provided by the grandson of the Iditarod creator and champion, Jed Remington. (What we found so interesting is that these dogs are much smaller and leaner than any husky or malamute we have ever seen.) Like horses, they have mixed breeds to develop a lighter, stronger racing dog.
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| The puppies just wanted to nap, as puppies do |
It turns out to receive the Alaska resident yearly tax dividend (thanks to the pipeline), they have investigators who interview you yearly. You have to be here on Christmas and New Year’s Day, so that week becomes a major party week for Alaskans.
Back on the ship, we were fortunate enough to see Steve Hites, a fabulous Alaskan musician/singer/storyteller tell and sing more about Alaska’s history.
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| Simple, but effective for a state flag
One story he shared was that a 13 year old Benny Benson designed the Alaskan flag and the state’s song: Eight stars representing the Big Dipper on a field of blue, with one more, the North Star to represent AK becoming the 49th state.
They actually have approved hillside graffiti courtesy of the cruise ship crews high up...Whoever's crew can paint their ship's logo, highest on the hill is the most coveted...the captain actually pays someone on his staff to accomplish this task. They have to not be afraid of height!!!
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One show that we loved was by as vocal impressionist Tricia Kelly. She was incredible! She could mimic both men and women singers. We couldn’t believe her musical voice range or her ability to remember so many singers distinct styles!!!
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